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  Parley's Canyon Rock Climb

Climb Rating: 5.4 to 5.9
Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced
Route Height:: 110 ft
Maps: Salt Lake City Map

It's located at the mouth of Parley's Canyon adjacent to a subdivision.

This climb is quick and easy to access if you live in Salt Lake City. Even if you don't, since it's not located up a canyon, many people can get to it easily. That's also the negative of course - you'll probably see other people there. But you won't find solitude anyway with I-80 visible and noisy below.

The freeway, however, adds a sense of perspective to your setting and reinforces the height of the cliff. I've mostly climbed on shorter routes so this one was thrilling at over 100 feet high and almost vertical. This is a great climb if you just need to get away for a quick fix of climbing or rappelling.

Driving Directions

From I-215, take the 33rd South Exit and turn east toward the mountain. Turn north on Wasatch Blvd / 3533 E., then shortly after turn right (east) at a street named Gateway. Follow this street up (northeasterly) for a short distance, where it connects to a deadend road, ending at a gate on a steep slope. Don't block the gate, or you may get towed.

Trail/Route Notes
Walk past the gate along a 4WD road. The road contours uphill slightly but mostly goes straight ahead toward a radio/cell phone tower and building. For reference, the location of the cliff is maybe 50 feet west downslope from the tower. A worn trail leads to the cliff past a lone boulder. The freeway is not directly below, but it's visible in the canyon bottom.

Look around and you'll see a few bolts at the top. There's also a good natural belay around a large protrusion that looks like a boulder. There's a steep straight-down trail that leads to the bottom of the route -- it starts above the tower/building.

I heard through word-of-mouth that the bottom of the climb is rated 5.9. It's the most difficult part to get past for beginners. After that it's easier, I'd guess going to 5.7 up to the halfway point, and then maybe 5.5 to the top. Of course, strictly following the bolted route it's probably around 5.9 the whole way up. It's just that you can fudge a bit and climb easier stuff alongside if you need or want to.

There's also at least one more route next to this one. The bottom of another climb is about 30 feet to the west. I didn't venture over to see if there were bolts, but other climbers were having a go in that area.

I don't have a guidebook with this route -- if you know of a book where this route is described, please tell me about it.

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